Q&A How Far Do I Strip My Paint on my Car Before Repainting


– Hey YouTube, Donnie Smith here and I’ve got another Q & A for you. Had a question on my channel
about stripping paint. If I’m gonna paint a car the same color, how much do I strip off? Well, I’m gonna answer that
question in this video. (car screeches) So, John Waterson says great
job to you and the team. And if you’re planning on
painting a car the same color, how far do you need to
strip down the vehicle. And what they’re talking
about here is I had a video, I believe that’s one where
we’re repainting a Mustang, we are changing colors,
and probably talking about the color change and
things like that in that video. But what he’s asking is if he’s
not gonna change the color, how far down do you
have to strip the paint? There’s really several answers to this because it’s gonna determine
on what kind of condition your paint is in, what you’re
going to be painting over. Is it a factory paint
that’s never been painted that’s in excellent condition? You know, that’s the
case all you have to do is use anywhere between four and 600 grit and sand it down with that. And you’re not trying to
strip any off, necessarily. I mean, it’s gonna take some
off, but the main thing is that you just want to
provide that adhesion, that mechanical adhesion. And just sand it until you
can knock the gloss off, there’s no glossy spots. Once you’ve done that, you can go ahead and get ready for paint. But, a reason that you might
not be able to do that, you know if it’s been painted, it may have too many
mills of paint on there. It may be too thick. If that’s the case, you may
have to do a partial strip. Don’t necessarily have to
take it down to the metal, but you do need to get some of that down. If it’s 12, 14 mills of
paint, of coatings on there, you know you’re gonna
have to take that down, to a four to six, you know,
somewhere around in there. And the way you determine
what the mills are, they’ve got different
gauges, a digital one, you know it’s kind of expensive, but they’ve also got
these little magnet gauges you can stick on there, it
has to be a metal surface, and you pull it up, it’ll kind of read how many mills are on there
before it slips off of there. If the paint’s too thick, you’re gonna have to do a partial strip. Don’t have to necessarily
have to take it all the way down to the metal. What we all usually do is use 180 grit to get to the mills that we’re wanting. And then we need to cut back and remove those 180 grit scratches, and it’s good not to jump
over 100 grit at a time. So what we do is we’ll
usually go with 180, and then we use 220 to minimize
the 180 grit scratches, and then we’ll use 320
to minimize the 220, and then we’ll final set with 500 to get it ready for paint. And that’s what we do, and
that’s worked well for us. Now, other reasons, like if it’s peeling, like a lot of times the
clears may have got so thin, especially on the top
surfaces, where it’s peeling, it’s basically just coming off because it got so thin from the sun. All the clearcoat will have to come off. You don’t want to leave
any of that on there. If it’s peeling down to the primer, you’ll have to take all
the paint and everything down to the primer. If it’s showing rust
spots, that’s an indication you’re going to have to strip it to metal. Just kind of determines on
the condition of your paint to answer that question. But if your paint’s in good condition, final sand it, get it in the booth. Well John, I hope that
helps answer your question. If not, if I didn’t
really answer the question you was asking, or you need
additional information, just let me know in a comment, and I’ll try to get back to ya, and either type you a comment
or do another video response trying to help you answer this question. As always, thanks for
watching these videos. I really appreciate it. If you have any questions,
leave a comment, let us know. Be sure and share this video,
and subscribe to this channel. And we’ll talk to you in the next video.