Note 8 Teardown – Screen Replacement, Battery swap

It’s time to tear down the Galaxy Note 8 and
review the tech from the inside…see how hard it is to repair if you crack your screen,
or just need to replace the battery. Let’s get started. [Intro] If you’ve watched my clear Galaxy Note 8 video,
you’ve already seen some of the opening process. It is difficult. Samsung has used a new type of adhesive this
year that is incredibly strong. This is much harder to remove than on the
Galaxy S8, or even the glass back of the LG V30. But, it’s still removable. This is accomplished through heating up the
back glass until it’s just barely too hot to touch, and then sliding a thin metal pry
tool between the metal frame of the phone and the glass back panel. I found it easiest to pull up on the center
of the glass with my suction cup to ease some of the tension, then slide my pry tool along
the side of glass. This is how Apple should have made their iPhone
8 – but they didn’t. Replacement glass panels are relatively cheap
for the Note 8, so if yours is already broken, or if you manage to break yours during this
repair process, don’t stress out too much. I’ll have replacement parts linked in the
video description. Go slow and be gentle. That usually works for me. I managed to slice through my fingerprint
ribbon cable, but you can avoid that since you can see where it’s located. Now that the back panel’s off we get the first
glimpse at the back of the camera lens frame. If you wanted to swap out a cracked camera
lens at this point, you could. We also see 6 Philips head screws down by
the charging port. I’ll remove those and then make my way up
to the top plastic section with it’s 10 screws. Keep the screws organized. I’ll try to put them back from the same hole
they came from when I reassemble the phone. I’ll remove the wireless charger from the
frame at this point, and we can see the golden squares that rest up against the motherboard. They transfer power from the copper coil conductor
to the battery. When the bottom loud speaker comes off, exposing
the charging port, we also glimpse the headphone jack. I’ll show you how to remove all that in a
second. The speaker does have a water damage indicator
on it, so remember, your phone is not water proof, it’s just water-resistant. And Samsung does not cover water damage under
their warranty. If your phone gets wet, you’re on your own. One cool thing that Samsung has on the Galaxy
Note 8 is the dual camera set up on the back. Samsung talked about having optical image
stabilization on both camera units: the 12 megapixel regular lens, and the 12 megapixel
zoom lens. And that does seem to be the case – there
is some serious physical movement. This hardware is used to stabilize the camera
images. Making sure the battery is disconnected, I’ll
move on to the display ribbons. They unsnap like little Legos. Even the headphone jack down at the bottom
of the phone has the same style of connector. The watertight S pen slot unsnaps next. Then I’ll move up to the top of the phone
with the iris scanner and the 8 megapixel front facing camera. The front camera does have some play to the
lens, but it’s probably just the focusing and not the extreme movement that comes with
the optical stabilization. There’s one ribbon cable on the left side
of the board next to the last silver screw that needs to come out. I’ll unsnap the two little signal wires down
at the bottom of the board with their circular connections. We did see this same style of wire when I
made my clear Nintendo Switch video a few days ago. If you haven’t already taken out the SIM and
SD card tray, now would be a good time. This cute little guy holds the expandable
memory for the Note 8, as well as the SIM card. It has a rubber ring around the tip to help
keep water out. The motherboard is next to come out of the
phone. This is because the charging port Lego-style
connection is plugged in and underneath the motherboard down at the bottom. So in order to get at the connector, the motherboard
needs to lift up. After the motherboard’s out, the cameras can
come loose. They are both tied in as one unit. A bit different than the dual connection set
up that the LG V30 had, but cameras are pretty cheap to replace, and having them connected
as one unit isn’t a super big deal when it comes to cost or repair-ability. Looking at the frame of the phone we get the
copper heat pipe snaking down the side. This wicks heat away from the processor and
transfers it into the frame of the phone. I took a thermal imaging camera to the one
inside of my LG G6, and it actually functions surprisingly well, more than I thought it
would. There are 4 screws holding down the charging
port and the headphone jack. I’ll start lifting the tiny microphone out
from the frame so I can be gentle with that paper thin ribbon cable. Then the whole thing can come loose. Here is the charging port with it’s rubber
ring around the tip of the USB-C slot. This helps keep water out. The headphone jack has a similar ring around
it’s tip. That rubber, combined with the pressure of
the screws around them holding it tight, help give the Note 8 it’s IP68 water resistance
rating – one step above the IP67 rating of the new iPhone 8. The housing of the S pen holster is also water
tight from the inside. The S pen itself can’t get damaged from water
since it’s inductive with only some copper coils inside, but the rest of the phone needs
to be protected. That holster is pretty sealed off. Using the flat side of my metal pry tool,
taking special care not to puncture the battery, I’ll gently pry it out. Samsung has never been one to use the magic
pull tabs, but they also use a gentler adhesive than most. The display is right underneath this battery,
so I’m being very careful with this prying. Now if your screen is cracked you’ll have
to separate it from the mid-frame using some heat and the prying method that we used with
the back glass panel. It is not fun. The screens do not survive the removal process,
so only attempt this if your screen is totally busted and your replacement screen is ready
to go for the installation. Assembling the phone requires that 3300 milliamp
battery to go back in it’s slot, along with the charging port, getting all 4 of the screw
holes lined up with the frame…including that functional headphone jack. The little charging port connector gets clipped
to the underside of the motherboard before the whole thing gets laid down into the phone’s
frame. I’ll pull up any extra ribbon cables underneath
to make sure nothing is caught when I screw the motherboard back into place with that
one tiny screw. The screen ribbons get snapped in like little
Legos, along with the headphone jack ribbon. Then the white and blue wire cables that snake
up along the bottom of the board get plugged into their circular connections. There are 3 ribbon cables attached to the
top side of the motherboard. Then I’ll plop in the front camera and iris
scanner back into the little slots they came out of. Clicking them down into place. The last thing I’m going to plug in is the
battery. Once the battery is connected, I’ll plop the
loud speaker plastics and the wireless charging that rests on top of the motherboard back
into place. There are 16 screws holding everything together. Now normally I would have to plug in the fingerprint
scanner at this point, but since I annihilated mine, I get to skip that part. Then finally, the glass gets put back down
over the top. Hopefully you’ll never have to fix anything
on your phone, but accidents do happen and batteries don’t last forever, so I’ll link
all the replacement parts and a cool tool kit, linked in the video description below. I spend most of my free time on Twitter and
Instagram, so come hang out over there. And thanks a ton for watching. I’ll see you around.