Make a Part From Start to Finish; Mark’s Greatest Setup Tips – Haas Automation Tip of the Day


– Hello, and welcome to
this Haas tip of the day. Today, we’re gonna go from this, (beeping) to this, a finished part. We’re gonna do a complete part
setup, from start to finish. But don’t worry, we’re gonna fast-forward through all the boring parts, (warping) and slow things down to
take in the good stuff. This is our Greatest Setup Tips video, our compilation album. Along the way, we’ll be referencing other videos that we have made that go into detail on the specific topics that we’re gonna cover
during today’s setup. So at any time, you can
open up the description to the YouTube version of this video. Just follow the links for
those specific videos. So, stick around. There are things in this video
that you don’t wanna miss. (mellow music) Kevin Kelly was one of the
cofounders of Wired magazine, one of my favorite magazines, and he’s also quite the author. Now, he once wrote that, “You’ll be paid in the future based on “how well you can work with robots.” Robots. Let’s figure out what
robots actually means here. Let me flip through. (pages flipping) Ah, robot, noun, a machine capable of
carrying out a complex series of actions automatically, especially one programmable by a computer. That sounds an awful
lot like a CNC machine, am I right? So, in the future, you’ll be paid based on how well you can work with robots, or in our case, as machinists, how well we work with our CNC machines. Now, in machining, there’s this hierarchy. We might start out as part loaders, we just load and unload the parts, and then we become setup persons, we can actually set up the entire job. Eventually, we might learn the G code, and become CNC programmers. With each step, with
each rung on that latter, we make more and more money, (cash register ching) as machinists. And that’s what we wanna do today. We wanna help you make
that leap from operator, or parts loader, to setup person. Well, let’s start by
powering on the machine. (upbeat jingle) I powered on my machine,
and then I went ahead and followed the on-screen instructions. It told me to cycle the doors, so I open and close the doors, and then I released the
emergency stop button. From there, I checked for obstructions, and pressed the power up key. This is gonna home out my machine, setting each axis back to machine zero. Now, I haven’t run this
machine since last Friday, so I went ahead and put
a tool in the spindle, and ran my spindle warm-up program. That’s program 2020. If you’ve lost that program,
if it’s been deleted, that’s not a problem. Just go to the Haas website, HaasCNC.com, and in the search bar,
enter spindle warm-up. You’ll find the program. As a setup person, everything for me begins
with my setup sheet. Now, this was created
by the CNC programmer, and it finds everything I need to know. It tells me what fixturing I’m gonna need, where my work offsets are gonna be, it also defines what tools I’m gonna use, an endmill, a drill, how
far they need to stick out, and the setup sheet will also tell me what programs I’m gonna be using. Now, I tend to use the SanDisk
Extreme USB 3.0 USB sticks. They’re fast, and they work
on all of my Haas machines. To load this guy up, I’m gonna go ahead and mount it on the control, press list program, and
navigate to my USB stick. (beeping) With my file highlighted, bracket.nc, I’m gonna press the F2 button, and copy that file over into memory. (beeping) With our program all loaded up, I’m gonna get back to my setup sheet. Okay, so starting out
with our setup sheet, it looks like number one
on my list is vice setup. And remember, we’ve got a whole video on how to set up a vice, so follow those links, and watch the detailed version. (upbeat jazzy music) (hammer pounding) So, that was step one. (laughing) Allen wrench. That was step one. We set our vices just like
the video showed us to. Now, I’m moving on to my next step, and I’m gonna do it my setup sheet says. I’m gonna set my back left
corner of my raw stock as my G54. And then, I’m gonna pick
up that hole in OP20 as my G55 zero. I’ve got a probe on my
machine, so I’m gonna use it. I’m gonna go ahead and
set my work offsets. Now, we’ve made, you know
what I’m gonna say, right? We’ve made an entire video showing you how to probe your work offsets, so check it out now. If you’ve got a probe, watch the work offset probing video. If you don’t have a probing system, we’ve got videos for you as well. On this left part, we’re just gonna be picking up the top
and the edge of the part, so we’ve got a video on how to manually pick up the edge of your part. Check it out. And a little bit later,
you can look at your G55, where we have to pick up that hole, and we’ve got a video showing you how to manually pick up that hole. So, if you don’t have a probing system, we’ve got you covered. If you’ve got a probing
system, we’ve got you covered. (upbeat music) Well, that’s it, we’ve
set up our work offsets just like our setup sheet told us to. Now, we’re gonna move on to our, our tools. Now, I’ve got all the tools
that we need for this job already lined up here in our rack, but I set them up in another video, surprise, surprise, so check out the video where we show you how to set up ER tools. It’s kind of a cool video. We use all these fancy torque wrenches. I’ve got my pull stud torque wrench, my ER32, my ER25, my ER16 wrenches. So, check out that video. Now, looking over these tools, right off the bat, you’re gonna notice that they’re all pretty small. There are no giant face
mills in this shot. If we had some large tools, let’s say a three inch,
or a four inch shell mill, then we would have to designate
it as a large or heavy tool, depending on the size of this thing. Especially if you’ve got
a side mount tool changer. Now, on this machine, I’ve got a sticker that says that with a
24 pocket tool changer, anything bigger than
three inches in diameter has to be set as heavy. We’ve got a video on that. Check out the large/heavy tool video. We explain everything there is to know about designating those tools
on your pocket tool table. Now, we can move on. I’m gonna grab this tool here, and we’re gonna start
loading up all these tools, and I’ll probe them all. I do this little routine
every time I load any tool. I take a look at the drill tip, or the inserts on this indexable endmill, and I make sure I don’t have any chips. Then I take my bare hand, and I slide it across
the taper of the tool, checking for any rust or corrosion. If it has some light corrosion on there, I might grab a piece of scotch bright with some rust preventative,
like a Castrol Rustilo, or just a WD-40, and I will scrub that corrosion off. If I still feel any pitting, it’s time to get rid of that tool. You don’t wanna mar up your spindle. Now, at that same time, I’m gonna kind of give
my pull stud a quick tug. I just wanna make sure the
thing’s not falling off. I’ll check the pull stud for dents. If it’s dented, I’ll
replace the pull stud. And, on tools that are running
through spindle coolant, I’m gonna look down the end
of my tool, can you see that. And make sure there’s a hole down the middle of my pull stud. If there’s no hole down
the middle of my pull stud, I can’t run through spindle coolant. There are pull studs
with and without holes for that through spindle coolant. Well, that’s it. I’m gonna go ahead and call
up tool one into the spindle, this is tool one, and start loading up my tools. (beeping) (mellow music) (machine whirring) Okay, so I just probed tool one. And, did you learn how to do it? – No. – Maybe not, but you can always, right, okay, great. If you’ve got the probe, you now know where to look for that information. If you don’t have a probing system, (clicking) okay, we’re on the same page. (upbeat music) Well, it’s time for us to
set our coolant nozzles, our P cool positions. So, I’m gonna turn on the coolant. Okay, so why am I not
completely soaked right now? It’s because I know that last night I used my washdown hose
to clean out my machine, and when I use that hose, I close the valves that
feed my coolant lines. So, I’ve got to open those valves back up. This is something we should
be checking every morning to make sure we’ve got
cool into running properly. Okay, now we can go
ahead and set our P cool. And guess what, say it along with me, we’ve got a video for that too. Go ahead and check out the
link in the description for the video that talks about
setting our P cool positions. (beeping) (upbeat jingle) Well, we’ve done everything
that we were supposed to according to our setup sheet, so I can just hit the green
button and run, right? Well, almost. Trust, but verify. I wanna make sure that my
tool list on my setup sheet matches the tool list and the
tool numbers in my program. And guess what, we haven’t
made a video on that, so I’m gonna show you that right now. Starting from the beginning of my program, I’m gonna press T, and
then press down arrow. (beeping) I just wanna make sure that my T values, my H values, and my D values all match, and the tool description in my program matches the tools described
in my setup sheet. We’re just verifying everything lines up. While I’m here, I’m also
gonna look at my work offset, G54 in this case. Everything looks good. I’m gonna press T, and
then down arrow again, (beeping) and check all my tools in that same way. Now, when I’m done with that,
if this was a production job, I would then make sure that all of my tool pre-calls are correct. It looks like this program does not have any pre-calls in it, so starting from the
bottom of the program, working my way up, I’m gonna press T, up arrow, (beeping) and then at each tool, I’m gonna add a pre-call line for the next tool. (beeping) Now, this is something that we would do if you have a side mount tool changer. If you have an umbrella
style tool changer, don’t worry about it. Okay, it’s the moment of truth. I’m gonna run this part. I’ve already ran my part in graphics, I pressed the graphics button, and then ran my part. Now I know exactly where my
tool is gonna start and stop, giving me some perspective. I’m gonna make use of
the single block button, so I can start and stop
my program as necessary. We made a video on that. And again, this is the
Greatest Setup Tips video, the compilation album. Be sure to watch the other videos. They’ll go through and tell you to watch your position screen
as that tool comes down to avoid any kind of incident or crash. Watch the other videos. Okay, I’m gonna switch to 25% rapid, press memory, position, I wanna see my position, my distance to go, and I’m gonna run this part. (machine whirring) Nice. (laughing) (upbeat jingle) Well, my part’s finished
up just fantastic, but one thing I don’t like
is the position of my table. When the program ends, I want it to move those
vices right in front of me so I can change those parts more easily. So, I’m gonna go over, adjust the code, add in a special G53 line to take care of that for us. (doors closing) (beeping) That’s better. Now, with a completed
part, and a proof program, I’m just gonna add one line
of code to that program, writing down that it’s been proofed. I’ll say proofed, with my
initials, and the date, so when I backup that program and pull it out next time, I’ll know that it’s all
set and ready to go. Well, we’d like to thank you for going through this setup with us, and watching this
Greatest Setup Tips video. We’ve got plenty more
singles for you though. We’ve got videos on M30 counters, and G98, G99 clearance
planes for your drills. We’ve got videos on probing and macros, so check back and often for
our latest tip of the day. Thanks for watching. (upbeat music)