Is It Better To Paint Parts on Car or Off Car? Acura Project

(exciting rock music) – Hey, YouTube viewers,
this is Donnie Smith, and welcome to another
episode on Acura project. Now in this project, on this fender, we’ve done the bodywork, prime and block, and now we’ve got it ready for paint, and so we’re gonna paint this fender, and we’re gonna paint it off the car. Now, years ago, back whenever
I was in the body shop and did a lot of painting,
the way we did everything, when a new part came in,
the paint guy would edge it, basically just paint the jamb’s insides and whatever needs to be painted, and then the body guy,
would go to his side, he had installed the fender,
hood, or whatever it is, and then it’d come over to the
paint side and we’d paint it. Well, the trend’s kinda changing, and I’m gonna tell you why. (car screeching) (explosion) More parts are being painted
off the car at shops, and I think a big part of
that is for production. If you think about it, if you have a car that’s been worked on by the body shop, and new parts come in, they’re
not ready for these parts but you have an opening in the booth, well bring those parts in, paint them, and then give them to
them, and by doing that, you can paint these parts,
you can paint both sides at the same time, you don’t have to edge and paint the outside separately, and I think another big thing
is you get a much cleaner job. I mean you don’t have
mask jambs and edges, and having the type of paint edges that you might get to see. There’s no hardware in new parts, so you don’t have to
worry about door handles or nuts, bolts, things like that. It’s all removed so you can
really get a lot cleaner job. And one last thing that I think had shops thinking a little different, thinking about doing
things different like this is maybe the insurance
company wanting cars in and out faster. The cycle time, how long is
that car gonna be in the shop? How many days and whatever,
and by doing this, occupying the booth,
getting the parts painted, I think shops have found
that they can actually get more volume, more cars in
and out doing it this way. At our last advisory board
meeting, I was even surprised to learn that they are
trying to paint more and more parts off the car. Even some of your panels that
are held on with adhesives and things like that, like roof skins, and when they first
mentioned that, I’m like, “Man, that’s kinda
risky,” getting roof skin, spraying it, and then
giving it to the body guy. Are they gonna mess it up putting it on or anything like that? And they said, “Oh,
occasionally, it’ll happen, “but it really doesn’t happen that often,” but one thing that he mentioned to me, one of the guys in the
advisory meeting, he said, “Think about it. “I mean, would you rather
paint a roof skin on a Suburban “down here where you can get to it, “or you wanna be climbing around up there, “trying to get to it, and
you know how high they are “and long and big?” He says, “You can do a much better job “doing it down here where
you can get to it easy.” So that made sense to me,
and another thing he said, “If you paint one part at a time, “each part, you can make
it look so quality.” Sometimes, if you go to
painting multiple parts or complete, it’s hard to get, especially on top of a roof or a hood, it’s hard to get just the same quality like you would if it
was one panel at a time. Most of the shops that I
talk to on my advisory board, they are using waterborne paint, and that does match
better than your solvents, so that’s something to
consider if it’s metallic or tri-coat or something like that. If you’re using solvents,
you may have a little trouble with it matching. They did mention one thing. They said whatever direction
the panel faces on the car, like if it’s a door, it hangs, or if it’s a roof, it’s flat,
you wanna paint it that way. Be sure if it’s a door,
you have it sideways, if it’s a hood, you
have it flat, or a roof, ’cause that will make a difference in how the metallic plays and
whether it matches or not, so that may be something
for you to keep in mind. So what do you do with the rest of the car that hasn’t been painted yet? Maybe you gotta blend
into a door or something like we’re gonna have to in this Acura, we’re gonna blend into
the door and the hood. Well, we’ll show you that
in an upcoming video, but for this video, we’re gonna show you how to paint this fender off the car using waterborne paint and
we’re gonna blend the paint and clear coat the whole fender. Okay, so we’ve got the
fender washed in the booth and we’re ready to start spraying it, and the first thing we
wanna do is clean it with some wax and grease remover just to make sure all traces
of wax and grease is off. Remember, that’s important. We go through every step of washing it several times before we
ever get in the booth and just to make sure it’s clean. That’s gonna prevent silicones and dirt and other things that you may have, so, anyway, I’m just gonna go around it with some wax and grease remover, and also get your jambs good, too. Anywhere that you’re gonna put any tape or anything like that, the
tape will stick much better. Now I’m using a waterborne
wax and grease remover, and this will get your hand prints off and other contaminants
that the regular wax and grease remove won’t remove, and also got some gloves on now so make sure that I don’t
get any hand prints on there after this point. Now, as I mentioned
earlier, we’re just painting this fender, but I’m gonna
paint it all at the same time. We’re not painting an entire fender, we’re just gonna paint the primered spots, and then we’re gonna blend
into the center area there, and now, on this fender, the jamb, we’re gonna go
ahead and respray the jamb and we’re just gonna paint it all. I did and it is all sanded
and prepped and ready to go. Now this is a new part. You’d wanna paint the jamb
at the same time as well, and this will eliminate edging the part, and then coming back later,
and painting the outside. Now I’ve got a tack rag and see how I’m tugging on that tack rag? On the waterborne tack rags,
on these ones I use anyway, I don’t know if they’re all like that, but you have to pull at a
part to release the adhesive. It’s got a low tack adhesive
to get any final dust, lint, things like that off. If you don’t pull it off,
it’s just like using a WypAll, so make sure that you pull that apart. Now I’m applying some self etch primer. I’ve got just a few
small bare metal spots, so just to the metal spots,
I’m gonna put that on there, I’m gonna apply that self etch primer, and then I’m gonna allow it to flash. You don’t have to sand that,
just allow it to flash, and then you’re ready to
apply your primer sealer, and now, I’m putting this, and that just goes on your primered areas, anywhere you’re gonna paint,
and I’m keeping my pressure low and trying not to get a lot of overspray ’cause I am gonna blend this fender. Now I’m gonna go over here,
this is the bigger spot, and I’m gonna kinda shoot away, like I did when I was
using primer surfacer, I’m gonna kinda shoot away from
the center of the fender so, ’cause if that sealer, if it
gets on the painted surface, you’re gonna have to paint in. I don’t have much blending room here, but I did wanna go ahead and blend it so I can show you a blending technique. Now you wanna be certain to
read your technical data sheet and allow that to flash off. This primer sealer does not
have to be sanded either. You’ll allow it to
flash, and then you come with your base coat. And trying to get it where you can see. I forget the camera’s there sometimes and I try to get in angles. So what I’m gonna do is I’m
gonna around this entire fender. I’m gonna spray all the edges first, because you don’t want the… If you painted the fender
first, the outside, then you come back and get the edges, well the overspray’s gonna
come and land on the fender and it might kinda land
different, especially metallics, so I always like to do the
inside of the jambs first, then I’ll come back and
put a nice, even coat on the outside. Okay, now, I’ve got the
jambs painted on it, and I’m blocking it right there. It’s hard to remember to
get in the way you can see this sometimes but I’m just
putting a even coat on there, and this is a 75% overlap
on the waterborne. Solvent’s usually 50, but this is 75. So basically, what I did,
I just painted a little bit past what I sealed, and another thing with this waterborne paint, some booths have these air dryers that are built into the booth. We don’t have that, we just
have these handheld dryers. That does take a little extra air movement to dry these parts, and basically, we’re just using the
air that’s in the booth, that it’s generating. I’m kinda redirecting it,
and you can actually see this waterborne as it dries. I mean it’ll evaporate, and
that gloss just kinda goes away, and the good thing about this is, and this production shop’s like this, too, there really is not a flash time. I mean that if you see that it dries, you’re ready for the next coat, so really, you can get through the base
coat stages much faster. Now I’m applying a second coat. The bad thing about it
is, you have to stay in the booth the entire time. You’re either painting or you’re drying, unless you have a booth that
has all that built into it. That would be nice. But it really is a faster process. There, now I’ve got it
where you can see it. So I’m going out a little
further with this one. And I had just a couple
little spots in the front so I’m blending those in. And if the spots wasn’t in the front, you could just do the back part of this, and I’ve also, there’s a
little bit of overspray on the top edge of the
fender where I’m edging it. I’m just gonna let all that blend in. And I know I’ve had a video
before with solvent paints, where that, I used a blending clear, and that helps blend it but
they really don’t have that for waterborne, but you don’t need it. This stuff blends so good. I mean it is very easy, paint to blend. It’s much easier than solvent. Now, due to having to have
all that air movement, and you have to have
really clean environment, it is a little more sensitive to dirt. I really don’t think
waterborne’s an alternative for the DIY, but if you are at a shop, I have really fell in love
with this waterborne paint. Haven’t had really a
lot of problems with it. Everybody was kind of scared of it when we first started using
it, and it is different. It takes some adjusting, but
me and a lot of the students, and most shops that I’ve
talked to that have switched really do like using the waterborne paint. This is PPG’s waterborne, Envirobase, and it’s just really cool of
how good these color matches. A lot better than solvents,
especially with the metallics. Now I’m applying another coat of base, and you wanna apply however
many colors it takes to coat that, to cover that
primer that’s underneath. Some colors, it may take two, some colors, it may take four. Just kind of depends. So you kinda want to keep
your eye on those primer edges and make sure that they’re covered, that you have full hiding. Wish I’d have thought about camera angle a little ahead of time
and I may have put it to the side where you
could see that better. So we got the third
coat on, and then again, we’re gonna dry it. You gotta dry every coat. If you rush these coats,
I haven’t done it, so I really don’t know what’ll happen. They just say don’t do it. I think it won’t dry at all. You trap all that water in
there and it just won’t dry. Okay, I got that done. Now I’m gonna apply a control coat. I turn my pressure down,
open my fan pattern all the way open, and do a real fast coat, but real tight overlap. Doing about 80, 90% overlap, and… 18 inches back, 12 to 18 inches back, and moving really fast. That just helps with the metallic. It helps it lay down right. So I allowed that to flash, and I had to blow dry it as well. Allowed it to flash and now,
I’m putting on the first coat of clear coat, and again, I’m gonna do my jamb’s insides first so whenever I get to the outside, I’ll have a smooth texture
that doesn’t have overspray from the sides coming
and landing on top of it. So I’ll put a coat of that
on, get all the insides done. And remember, the clear
coat is still solvent. This is not waterborne. I think in California, they
have some waterborne clear, but we’re still using solvent. So now we fall back to our 50% overlap, and that’s where you overlap
each pass that you did, 50%, to get the proper mils and the thickness that’s recommended by
the technical data sheet. So I… Thought about the camera there and trying to show you
a little bit better, of putting on the first
coat of clear coat. Now this does not air dry but
it does have a flash time, so you have to allow it to
flash the recommended time, whatever the technical data sheet says. So allow it to flash and now
I’m putting on the second coat, and really, that’s all that
we’re gonna put on this is two coats, that’s what it recommended. Usually, you can put two or three, and if you see that there’s a lot of dirt or you got a run or orange peel, something that’s gonna take
some sanding and buffing, how many times, but go
ahead and put on three. If it looks good with two
coats, I’ll leave it at two, so that’s just something to keep in mind. If you’re gonna be doing some sanding, you may wanna put that third coat, because you’re gonna sand
some of those mils down by sanding and buffing. 50% overlap, notice I’m
going over the entire fender. I’m not breaking it up
in choppy little parts like you might would with a rattle can or something like that,
and that just helps lay it on there nice and
smooth, gives it a good gloss. Okay, now, getting the
bottom part of this fender. And now, we have got this fender painted, so it is ready to dry and
then we can put it on the car. So if you have more ideas,
you work at a body shop, what’s your preference? Edging parts and putting them on then painting the whole
car at the same time, painting parts off the car,
or if you have some ideas or some reasons that I didn’t provide of why it’s better to
paint parts off the car, be sure and leave a comment. I’m learning every day,
and this is something that’s kinda changed
in the past five years, more and more parts being
painted off the car, so I’m still learning as well. So anyway, leave us a comment. Let us know what you think about this, how you do it, what you prefer. And if you liked this video, be sure and give us a
thumbs up, give us a like, and thanks for watching this video, and we will see you in the next video. (exciting rock music) Tap that down. (rock music drowns out speech)