How To Restore Faded & Discolored Paint! – Chemical Guys


hey everybody welcome to this episode of
Chemical Guys detail garage today we have an American classic in the shop a
1962 Ford Thunderbird and as you can see it’s got this oxidized look on one side
and on the other half we’ve already polished it giving it this glossy
effect now what’s gone here or happened here is this cars been sitting outside
and if you didn’t know red absorbs UV rays very poorly that’s what starts to
oxidize very quickly giving you this matte finish but the best way to remove
it and the only way to remove it is by Machine polishing so we started off by
using v36 with an orange cutting pad because we don’t want to take off a lot
of material we’re trying to use the least aggressive approach even though we
tried v32 which does remove a lot of material and gives us a nice shine we
don’t need to go with that aggressive so we’ve decided to step it down to V36
to get most of the oxidation off and then come back with a white pad and V38 to really jewel the paint and clear up any kind of tiger stripes or marring
so when it continued the same process on the rest of the vehicle and then we need
to wax it so we can prevent future damage now in a case like this if you
want to put on a very strong durable protective coating you can also use
something like hydro slick or if you want something more traditional you can
go with your favorite glaze sealant or wax combination to bring out that really
torch red cherry glow of this Thunderbird or on any color vehicle that
you have yourself so to begin we’ve already got our TORQ15DA set up with
an orange hex-logic pad which again is what we’re using for our cutting because
it has a mild cut but also a polishing capability with v36 cutting polish and
we’ll just shake up the bottle we’re going to apply five dime sized dots to
our pad and a dime is about the size of one hex and if you’re new to polishing
I’ll walk you through the steps of how to polish and the proper technique
before we do that we’re going to apply a little bit of pad conditioner and what
this does is it helps to moisten the pad which reduces friction and it cuts down
on any kind of dusting but this is gonna help your pad last as long as possible
what I like to do is I’ll work from the center out this way I’m not leaning
across an area that I’ve already polished so we’ll start here on the back
of the hood at the very center we’ve done our 50/50 and on the lowest speed
setting we’re going to spread out the polish this way we can have an even
amount all over the service that we’re going to working on
which is about a two foot by two foot section and also this is going to
prevent us flinging polish when we turn up at the highest speed setting so when
you use the dual action polisher you want to use the lowest speed setting to
spread up your compound or your polish and the highest speed setting to do the
actual polishing you want to make sure that it goes completely clear or
translucent this way you’re not leaving any kind of you know swirls or scratches
behind but you’re also working in the Polish giving it the proper breakdown time
so it can actually do its job and then you wanna take a clean microfiber towel
and buff off any excess now also when you’re using any kind of polisher you
want to make sure that you’re on applying too much pressure because this
can one create a lot of heat and also it can stall the pad so you’re not actually
doing any kind of correction you’re actually just you know basically
vibrating across the surface which isn’t polishing you want to make sure that
it’s completely flat so it’s not dipping either nose down or backwards or
side-to-side this way it’s not creating a hot spot which grant marring or that
hologram effect I’m sure a lot of you have seen so the proper technique is
just to basically weigh down with the weight of your hand and this hand
back here is what’s going to be guide in the direction the pivot what I like to
do is I put my thumb right here on the backside basically right behind the
analog screen this will keep you from basically twisting it from side to side
so like I said we’ll use the low-speed setting to spread it out and the highest
speed center what we’re going to be using to do our actual polishing and
then we’ll give you guys a little before-and-after here As you can see the polish has gone
basically clear so we’re going to take a clean microfiber towel and buff away any
of the excess and as you can see on the pad there since this is a single stage
paint job it’s going to have a lot of residue on there which is again why we
want to go with the least aggressive approach because we don’t want to take
off a lot of material this is gonna save you some of that paint and although it’s
not going to be 100% paint correction it still looks a lot better this is a huge
transformation from this non-reflective matte side to you’ve actually got some
kind of reflection although the paint is cracking that’s to be expected when the
paint has been this old the owner says it’s not the original paint but it’s
been on there since at least you know the early 90s so for what it is I think
it looks fantastic you know and a lot of people would say this is almost a
survivor because it’s all original so we’re going to continue the same process
with v36 and then move on to V38 to really
jewel the paint but one thing else I want to mention and that is your arm
speed which basically means as you’re polishing the speed that your arms are
moving it’s about an inch per second so that you’re not moving too quickly which
creates a marring effect because polish isn’t properly breaking down but also
you want to cover 50% of your last pass so you’re not leaving any kind of stripes
this is the best way to get to an uniform shine case you’re moving the
same amount of material over the entire surface so we’re gonna continue the same
process that’s the same as that procedure for v38
and then we need to protect it and that’s probably where we’re going to
bring up both the shine most of the warmth because again we can either use a
ceramic coating like HydroSlick or we can move on something traditional like a
glaze sealant wax combination you guys stay tuned all righty guys so that’s pretty much
gonna wrap it up for today we still got a lot of polishing to do because this
car is a boat so we need to move our way around the rest of the vehicle before we
go onto our coating process but to really protect this finish because again this
is not original paint but it’s very old paint and since we want to keep in that
survivor condition we’re gonna go with HydroSlick which is a super easy to apply
ceramic gel and it’s going to lock in the shine but it’s going to repel those
harmful UV rays that really deteriorate the finish so it’s gonna prevent any
kind of oxidation that’s also going to hand some of that water beading actions
so it’s gonna keep the car looking cleaner for longer it makes the drying
process a lot easier as well as the wash process so HydroSlick is a great
product for any kind of car doesn’t matter if it’s a new car old car red white blue
whatever you have it’s just really gonna bring out the shine of any color vehicle
so if you guys want to know more about these products head over to our website
chemicalguys.com or your local detail garage if you liked today’s video you
like the Thunder Bird or if you like old classic cars be sure to give it a thumbs
up drop your comments down below anything else you guys want to see or maybe your
favorite old car we’ll see you guys next time his mother taught him something he will
be and you will be the leader all the bball Johnny you