How To Repair Clearcoat – Kevin Tetz Shows the Best Way To Fix Paint – Pt 3 of 3 – Eastwood

all right it’s looking close i’m going
to make sure and i’m going to get my best friend here mr. microfiber was a
hand rub that a little bit my transition is good i’m still hazy out here so I
could be a little more aggressive on but I’m kind of digging the way this is
turning out and here’s the other thing to you got to remember that if you go
too far you’ve gone too far and you’ve ruined the repair this is a very
delicate operation to get the illusion that you’ve got a continuous coat of
clear here so take baby steps on this if you’re doing this repair so and this
could go this way live – we just we don’t know I’m hoping it
doesn’t low rpm reasonably light pressure yeah yeah all right well there we go okay can can get all
over that like a spider monkey you can’t see that transition any longer you can get back to maybe a medium shot
where you can see the difference here you can see where it’s hazy here and
then it disappears there yeah yeah we can see the difference
there so that is how you can fool the person
looking into believing that you hadn’t spotted that in now I want to be careful
advising that you should do this because as I want to say again that it’s a
temporary fix it’s a temporary fix and it will get you by for a season on your
rockers on your leading edges on the inside edges of your wheel arches if
you’re an autocross freak like I am and you want to get past you know just going
to roll the tape back just like we do it on the hood sides and you know it gets
you through another season before you break into the paint again let’s go on masks are our project here
so it’s a temporary fix but it’s a good temporary fix and what I’m doing is just
taking off what I’ve masked up typically I leave this alone but i want
to show you the technique it’s important for unmasking when you’ve
got a delicate and fresh clear coat basically what you’re doing is pulling
away from the clear all right now what do we got we got an
edge there we got an edge there we’ve got a Polish allege there and a
transition there when I hit this I’ll probably hand rub that but when I
hit that and polish that out nobody’s going to be able to look at
that hood and say that clear coats flaking it’s band-aided it’s buried that in the
racing world you call that a field fix that is a very effective field fixed so
we just showed you what can be done we showed you how to do what can be done
we showed you why it shouldn’t be done but we went ahead and show you how to do
that face so so you know should I feel guilty
about that I don’t know no i don’t because there’s more than one
way to you notice to skin a chicken and and sometimes you gotta resort to things
that maybe aren’t in the rule books I always say you have to know the rules
before you can know how to effectively bit bend or break them so near the shameless plug here sorry
guys eastwood execs can get mad at me if they want to the paint education
instruction DVD series show you the fundamentals they show you the rules
they show you out they definitely really good right way to
do a lot of these procedures and to do it correctly but sometimes you know your
circumstances don’t don’t allow for an entire page up so stuff like that stuff
like the fender over there that can be a very effective fix so I want to reach out to the guys back
in back in PA with the the power of the Internet and ask if there’s if there’s any
questions if anybody if anybody is a you know written in any questions we’ve got a bit of a time delay so while
they’re catching up with what I’m asking them I also wanted to mention the tack rag
that have forgot to use I had it open i had this prepared these
tak rags this crystal tak rags are the best a Craig’s I’ve ever use because
they’re low tack they’re huge it’s a really nice cheese
cloth and it’s not it’s not gummy the way to use attack reg is to open it up
let it air out let’s let some of that tack go down i’m going to call in hey I’m here hey ok good we’ve got some questions yep yep ok 10-4 I’ve got a really good question
but I want to finish my thought on this so after you’ve spread your tack rag out
let it air out a little bit let it get acclimated let some of that tack
disperse and then you come by you fold it you don’t want it all up folded keep
rolling it and that’s the proper way to use attack i can truthfully you know and
this area was so tiny that you know when I wiped it off at the cleaners it’s going to be fine and if you’re
going to rub that you what you don’t want to do is trap anything under the
clear so that’s the correct way to unfold to use a tack rag and again these
crystal tak regs are available from eastwood and they’re beautiful it’s the
best ones I’ve ever used no endorsement I’ll get paid a dime for
that but the question was and I need my sharpie the question was when we’re doing a
clear coat repair like that and you have to spot a little bit of base code in
because it looks like that looks like pure but you got a spot a little bit of
color in what do you want to do well how do you do that so let’s just
here is our transition for are clear I’m just drawn it doesn’t matter i can
buff that off so what you want to do is leave enough room between your
transition and your buffing and the base code you don’t want to base right up to
here so what you want to do is engineer your
edge way past about two-thirds past your repair let’s say that my base coat first coat
was here a second coat was here then i blend it out here and i did a drop
pressure coat and blend it out there I would still be okay I’d still be in
the zone for repairing that and for buffing my edge and creating the
illusion of a transition there are other you know a complete clear coat but if I
brought my base coat out to hear what you would see would be the it would be
that the base coat basically unfolding with the structure of base coat is that
the the flakes kind of lie on top and when you dive into him with compound or
sandpaper it shows so you’d end up with with a
real clear halo around that repair if you didn’t protect it well enough with
the clear coat so great question if you have to apply base what do you do well you apply your base
your feather it out and then you create your yet you have to think about it
ahead of time but you go way past that you protect that base coat at all costs blend it out properly ring you’re clear account click hold out past
it so hopefully that answers your question we got anything else anybody else asking
stuff great great question the question is how
long do you have to wait to cut and rub clear coat and the truth is there are
many many many different answers to that question typically if you’re using a clear coat
that’s designed for an all-over paint job you can get on it in as little as you
know 12 to 14 hours the truth is it’s real soft then if
you’re doing a spot job if you’re in collision repair and you want to kick it
out the door then you’re probably using a faster clear and you can get on it
that soon what happens typically is that there’s a
90-day cure window for catalyzed clear coat and it’s going to shrink it just
does clearcoat shrinks as it cures the
solvents evacuate the out gasps and your spear material shrinks it gets down
smaller so if you cut that and you buff it it’s going to continue shrinking and
sometimes you can get hazed back it will get cloudy looking and it has to be
rebuffed later so what should you do on all over paint job here’s what i do when
i’m doing a show card by paying a car I’m going to cut it and i’m going to
leave it for a week let it out gas because when you not that
top off your you’re allowing all those solvents to evacuate offer that panel
leave in a week come back clean it and then buff it may
be a little bit harder to buff but you know that you’re gonna bring it up to
Glaus 1 time and you’re not going to have to go back it’s not going to cloud
up and ghost up now like I said there’s many answers to that
question I won’t be labor this but if you’re using a speed clear or a panel
clear or even the 2k arrow spray it says that you can get on it within it within
a few hours if you are you doing jams and you’ve got a fast clear coat you can
you can effectively there’s some clearcoat in in production shops that
you can get on and rub in two hours and safely kick it out the door you pay a high premium for those
products in my opinion you’re still flirting with disaster I think you know typically go to your pc sheets
there’s always a recommendation for a cut and rub time your pc to tell you
that but general rule of thumb is at least 24 to 48 hours then come in and
cut and rub your doing a show car leave in a week cut it open let it out gasps leave in a
week and come back and buff and you’ll only have to do it once so that’s a
great question thank you ok the question is should you use a rotary
buffer like the one I showed you or an orbital buffer not typically I would I
would normally say if this was five years ago i’d say go rotary a hundred
percent because it cuts harder it it’s New York your compound and your
resurfacing your your sanding compounding and bringing back up to
gloss you’re literally resurfacing that finish and an orbital buffer is like a
dual action sander it orbits as well as it spins and it’s just not as aggressive
however there are technologies now for for orbital or two stage buffers that
will cut every bit as good there’s the cyclo polisher that you can
find at least with it’s a dual the polisher my first experience with this
was some guys from a company called Swift aircraft in in northern Tennessee
when I was doing a TV series on the DIY network called classic rides we restored
vintage Airstream trailer and it was 24 feet long it was an Overlander and we
buff that thing we buff that aluminum trailer to wear it look like the
fuselage above a world war two airplane and the the guys from swift swift
aircraft came over and they showed us the technique for that there’s there’s a
sanding there’s a compounding there’s a final buff technique and it was
fascinating it was fascinating and we used a cyclo polisher for that so what I recommend is it’s because what
I’m used to it’s because what I was trained to do I
like the I like the rotary buffers while I’m cutting while I’m surfacing down
when i get up to gloss now from there i will use a semi
aggressive compound on an orbital buffer – D swirl the car so i use a combination
of both I’ve got an electric one I don’t have an
air-powered orbital buffer but I’ve got my electrical works just great and that’s what i use especially on a
dark color – D swirl the car but for basic cut and rub i use rotary I think that may be a
really a really good question that might
inspire a bit of a revision on the color sanding and buffing video or perhaps we
do an online video with the cyclo polisher on the eastwood website so
thanks for asking that question again my answer if you’re going to cut and rub
if you’re going to resurface the car cut nib trash all that kind of stuff use the rotary buffer get it flat and
then come back and d swirl with an orbital just a fine-tuned and finish out
the process so I hope that answers your question
thanks can use Arm the the the end of the week I’m a little confused can we use it for
two stage making me ask the question again hmm maybe they’re talking about the
single-stage urethane and clear coat on top of that ok ok yeah i think i understand it better there is a window to shoot the clear i
can’t recite the piece sheet okay here’s a question can you you if you’re doing a
single-stage paint job which is the gloss and the color all-in-one not a
two-step like a baseball clear coat if you’re doing a single-stage paint job can you put clear on top of it yes yes
you can what is the window for that well the P
she will clearly tell you that but i think it’s correctly guys if i’m wrong i
think it’s within 12 hours you got a recode that sucker in order for the
chemicals to crosslink so you don’t have that on the hood with a layer sitting on
top of the layer this destined for failure because within i think within
that 12-hour period you’ll still get a chemical cross-link of your single stage
color code and your clear coat on top here’s what i like to do without what
I’m doing a single-stage paint job I want to layer it up I want to ok so
here’s here’s my ground code I got a sealer coat here’s my color code
that’s a hundred percent color mine once i get hiding up to that once i’m done
with my paint job what I’m going to do is take i’m going
to take my color and i’m going to take a compatible clear coat and i’m going to
mix them up individually mix color mix clear and mix them together in a cup
5050 and then I’ve got my 50-50 mix right
there on top and then what I’m going to do is my next coat is going to be
seventy-five percent clear 25-percent color and then I’m going to come back
with one hundred percent clear coat so what that does when the light hits
this this is a really interesting effect is called refraction and it’s why a
candy job looks so deep and so nice that’s why when you look at video of the
water in the Bahamas that’s why it looks beautiful to us the
sunlight is going to come down and disperse into here before it bounces
back up and hits your eye it softens the light it’s not a direct reflection it’s a refraction of all of this stuff
in here when you’ve got clear a little bit of color and lots of clear half
color have clear and then hundreds and color here it softens the look of it so what does
that do as well now the top I’ve got a hundred set clear
coat so i can cut and rub this now if I’m just color here and I start
aggressively cutting and rubbing i’m getting down into the pigment and just
like I talked about on that clear coat blend when you bring your base coat too
far out you’re sacrificing the color you
stripped off all of your UV protection and you’re digging into the color and
it’s going to it’s going to model it’s going to stripe on you so what that does is you layer it up and
I know this is a long answer but if you layer it up that’s a way to treat that
demon to where you contain it layer it up create the refraction you
want I’ve had the most beautiful soft glowing
finishes out of like a robin egg blue I didn’t know fairly in one time and it
just it just really popped and it was a very nice trick I a guy that I can’t remember his name
right now talk to me about this and and taught me how to do that so if you want to treat it like a base
clear my suggestion is get a base clear system don’t use single stage urethane
to put a clear on top of it you know unless there’s a real good reason to do
that the color is not available in a base clear formula but if you going to
do base clear commit to base clear if you’re going to do single stage you
single stage but then treat it to where you can do the repair that you need on
it if you’re like a lot of guys out there
you have a home painting environment you’re going to have to deal with
contamination the best papers in the world you’re still going to get contamination
so i always like to buff clear coat and leave myself some room to enhance that
that that finish so I hope that answers a question I know
it was long-winded but hopefully i can share a technique with you guys too okay great question last question that
we’re going to talk about today is on a full restoration are you going to cut and rub before you
put the glass in the trim back on the car and my question is absolutely one
hundred percent yes yes I am the reason being is that if you’ve got
windshield trim or emblems or badges or something like that you will you’re
restricting the surface that you can buff think about it like this when these
cars were assembled they were shot down a paint line as a
body some of them were were dipped in the
primers and and it was shot down a paint line now it’s all robotics but there’s
no glass there is no interior in it there’s no emblems on it and to recreate
or to mimic the process of the factory which is what we’re trying to do anyways
with restorations we’re trying to enhance that with custom
stuff but we’re trying to recreate what the factory did so if you think about it like that the
factory didn’t have windshield moldings on it didn’t have the glass in and so
that paint could get into all of those cracks and crevices and areas I’m so that was the reason for them
being like that and when they do surface prep at the factory because they do cut
and rub the factory on final paint lines and final inspection lines you know it the stuff isn’t isn’t all
completely assembled so my recommendation is due your cut and rub
before assembly it gives you a much easier way to clean
those compounds out of the crevices and cracks and and it’s it’s just a lot
easier to do there’s less to think about you don’t have to worry about your edges
so much and your emblems if they’re plastic emblems like this ford ranger
emblem right here if I had dust and trash and I had that
emblem on there I’m going to have a halo of either orange peel or stuff around
that emblem that I can’t possibly buff so that that to me is a that’s a pretty
simple thing to to to conceive of you know think about the car going down the
assembly line nothing’s on it you cut and rub it then you put it back
together so I’m getting a cool signal in my ear that that’s all we have time for I want to thank you guys for watching
this live stream event we’re going to be doing lots more of
these things in the future with kind of all kinds of really cool media stuff
coming up eastwood TV we’re doing some stuff I
can’t even tell you about but it involves a really bitchin car and that I
don’t know there’s lots of great stuff coming up thank you for watching thank
you for watching live and thank you for watching after the fact on the website
and keep the questions coming in we’re also on the shop talk podcast that
I do the interview show that I do that’s available on iTunes and from these two
it on download were we’re giving away prizes if you guys email me questions if we read your
question on the air there’s great great prizes so keep that in mind – and remember that everything that we’ve
used today in this demo it can make you money or it can save you some heartache
and it’s all available from the eastwood company so super super big thanks to
eastwood and everybody up in PA thank you for you guys watching and we
will see you on the next live stream I’ve got some cleanup to do i got to get
all this ink of the fender so we’re going to go yeah