How To Prep A Car For Primer and Paint – Eastwood Mustang Project


– Hey YouTube viewers,
this is Donnie Smith, and welcome to another
Eastwood video series. Now, in the past videos
in this Eastwood series, we’ve been working on
dents, showing you how to locate and repair dents, how to disassemble the parts of a car. In this video, we’re gonna go over some of the steps that we took to get it ready for paint. You know, some of the minor imperfections. You know, it really wasn’t
bad enough for body filler, but still, primer wasn’t gonna be enough to just fill it and block it out. We applied some putty to those spots. We’ve got things like some feather edging to do that we’re gonna show you about, and final sanding, getting it
ready for primer and painting. So, we’re gonna go through
all these steps in this video, and show you the steps that we took. Okay, if you remember in
some of the previous videos, some of the dents that we pulled out and we applied body filler. Some of the dents we used a dolly and rolled the dent out, and was able to block the paint out, and it doesn’t need any filler at all. We’re just gonna prime those areas. But, there are a few areas that don’t really need to be taken down to metal and applied body filler. They’re just small imperfections, and what we’re gonna do with those is sand those with 180, and
apply putty on top of those. Now, anywhere you apply
putty, glaze putty, it does need to be sanded
with at least 180 grit. Anything finer might not adhere properly. Now, the advantages of glaze putty is that it can go on top of
different types of surfaces. It can go over sanded
paint as long as it’s 180, or the different layers
of paint, metal, whatever. The body filler, it can
go on top of body filler. If you have any pin holes,
small imperfections, or you know like some of
the dents we worked out, but it needs just a little more filling, you know a little bit more
than primer would provide, you know things like that
it’s gonna work well. A couple of the disadvantages
of using glaze putty is that it is more
expensive than body filler, and you can’t apply it as
thick as you can body filler. Body filler, it’s recommended. I’ve seen it a lot thicker,
but it’s really not recommended to use more than a quarter
of an inch after it’s sanded. And, glaze putty, you’re
looking at about an eighth inch. So, if you need more than
an eighth inch of filling, you know you’re probably gonna wanna go ahead and use body filler, but for the minor
imperfections we have left, we’re gonna go ahead and apply
glaze putty on top of it. Then, once we have the glaze applied, we’re gonna block sand that out with, you can use anywhere from 150 to 180. I think we’re using 150 in this video, but if you use one of those,
that’s gonna work well. And, don’t forget, you can use guide coat through any step, any step you’re doing. Whether it’s in the body filler,
the glaze, or even primer. You know, use guide coat. That’s gonna help you
identify lows, highs, or any imperfections that you may have. Also, when sanding glaze,
same principles apply. Be sure and cross sand that so that you feather those edges out properly. If you just sand in one direction, it’s gonna take a chance of
undercutting and have problems. So, be sure and cross sand. Now, we’re at a good point. This is always a step
that you kinda step back and you’re glad that you
have made it to this point. Although this care wasn’t too bad, I mean it didn’t have a lot of body work. Everything was pretty minor. But, once you get all the body filler block sanded, and it’s good,
glaze putty is block sanded, all the body work’s basically done. So now you’re gonna kinda move
to the refinish side of this, and the first thing you
wanna do is feather edge, and what that is is just to smooth out all the surrounding areas. You have different scratches in there from the different grits of sandpaper. You want to make sure all
those scratches are minimized by using 220 on a DA. And also, if there’s any paint edges where you had ground or taken it to metal, you want to be sure and layer
each layer of paint out, cause you don’t want a ridge there. You want to smooth that out and layer, and you really want each layer of paint, each coating, to be at
least a quarter of an inch, and what I mean by that, like your primer. You want to see at least a quarter inch ring of primer, and then the base coat, and how ever many layers
you have on there. You wanna see each layer leveled out. Now, a lot of times when we’re using a DA, we’re using an interface pad. It’s just a soft pad that
we put on the DA sander, but any time you’re
trying to level something, like if you have runs,
excessive orange peel, or when you’re trying to feather edge, you don’t want that
interface pad on there. You want a hard surface. So, just the DA pad alone is gonna provide a much better feather edge, and then trying to use an interface pad. So, we’re gonna get some 220 on a DA, no interface pad, and
we’re gonna feather edge around all of our body work areas, any chips we have, any scratches. We’re gonna feather all those out so that we have a nice, smooth
surface to continue with. So, once we get everything
feather edged out, now we’re ready to final sand, and what this is, this is
your final step of sanding, and we use four to six hundred. That’s kind of the range depending on your technical data
sheet, or your preference. What we use, we use 500 grit on a DA. Now, whenever your final sanding, you do want to use that interface pad, because that’s gonna
prevent any sand marks that the DA may put in the paint surface. So, whenever you’re final sanding, be sure to use the interface pad. Now, that’s just what we prefer to do. We prefer to use a DA with
500 grit and an interface pad, but there are different ways to do that. You can wet sand that by hand. It takes a little bit
longer, but you can take four to six hundred by hand,
and accomplish the same thing just with a little bit more effort, a little bit more elbow grease,
and a little bit more time. Now, when final sanding with
500, you want to be sure, you know, spend extra
attention to your edges, cause that’s what’s missed often, and if paint is going
to peel, it’s gonna peel from the edges many times. So, make sure you get your edges good, but there’s some edges,
and some hard to get areas, it’s hard to get with a DA sander, and that you may have
to just sand by hand, get some 500 grit and sand by hand, and we even use, after we
have final sanded everything, we go over everything
again, and get the edges, hard to get areas with a red scuff pad. If you’re painting a surface,
red’s gonna work fine. If it’s just gonna be clear coat, you want to use the gray. But, we’re painting this whole car, so we’re gonna go over all the car, the entire car, edges, hard to get areas, with that red scuff pad, just to assure that everything’s gonna
have proper adhesion. Now, the next step we’re gonna
take is sanding the jams. Now, this aint gonna be every job. It depends if you’re
painting the door jams, under the hood, things like that, but we are on this car,
we’re painting everything, so all that has to be sanded. You can’t skip the sand steps. If you skip sanding somewhere, the paint’s probably not gonna stick, it’s gonna peel. So, we’re gonna sand
that, and what we’re doing is we’re just sanding that by hand. There’s so many curves and
areas that’s hard to get. So, we just sand by hand with 500, and then we come back with a scuff pad, because there’s a lot
of hard to get areas, a lot of angles and curves
inside of door jams, under the hood, and all that. Then we’ll come back with a red scuff pad, and make sure that’s
all scuffed real well. But here’s tip for ya. Whenever working on your jams, you wanna clean everything,
the car that you’re working on, before you sand, but spend some extra time cleaning jams, because you
know around door hinges and the latch, they’re real prone to a lot of dirt and contamination. Oils, silicons, things like that. You don’t wanna smear that around. So wash it really good
with soap and water, your jams first, and wipe down with some wax and grease remover. Make sure all that’s gone. And, what we’ve even
do before in some areas that’s got some stuff caked on there, we’ll get a scuff pad with
some wax and grease remover, and try to make sure all that’s gone. Then we rinse it off,
and then we’ll scuff it, do our final sanding with 500, then come back with a scuff pad. So make sure any contamination’s gone on the jams before sanding. Okay, now we’ve got all
of our body work done, the car is smooth, straight, we’ve got everything feather edged,
and we have it final sanded, and now we’re ready to
apply some primer surfacer. I don’t know about you, but to me, I always like it when I get to that point. I feel like I accomplished something. You’re kinda moving from the
body side to the refinish side. So, in the next video we’re gonna show you the steps we took, and we’re
gonna show you the primer. We’re using some Eastwood primer. We’re using all Eastwood products as far as paint products. So, in upcoming videos
we’re gonna show you some Eastwood primer, some
base coat, clear coat, and we’ll go through the steps on that in upcoming videos. So anyway, thanks for watching this video. If you like this video,
be sure and give us a thumbs up, give us a like,
share this with your friends, and we’ll see you in the next video.