How To: Playstation 3 Yellow Light of Death Repair


Hi I’m mj with ifixit and today I’m going
to show one of the most common fixes to the playstation 3 ylod problem using the ylod
repair kit. The kit addresses what we found to be the most common reason for getting the
ylod in a playstation, and that is that the solder on the inside doesn’t handle changes
in temperature very well. So after an extended gaming session. Or just as the console starts
to age, the solder inside becomes brittle and starts to crack, and that disrupts the
connection. This video is just an overview so as your
repairing your playstation you wanna make sure to follow the step-by-step instructions
in the repair guide on our site. As far as tools are concerned the kit comes
with everything that you are going to need. That includes a heat gun, replacement thermal
pads, a spudger, a t10 torn security screwdriver, a 26 piece bit driver-kit, and my favorite
part, high quality thermal paste. Much higher quality thermal paste than the stuff that
comes in the playstation. And a plastic card with which to spread it. Your also going to
want to have some household grade goof off for a little bit of cleaning that your going
to do later, and a screw tray. which isn’t totally necessary but there are a lot of screws
in there and this does a good job of keeping them organized. Now that I’ve got all of my parts and tools
together i can get started. The first thing were going to do is remove the smart plate
on top. That is held in place by one tiny little screw on the bottom its either covered
up with a rubber button or a sticker. so you will want to take the rubber button off or
the sticker, and then use your T10 torx security driver to get in there and remove that screw. Now that that screw is removed, this part
comes off really easily. You just slide it down and lift it off. The next step, is to
remove a few phillips screws in order to get inside. Now that all those screws are out,
the top kit should come off pretty easily your just going to grab near the rear of it
and rotate it towards the front and set it aside. the next piece were going to remove
is the blue ray disk drive. That is held in place by just a couple of cables, ill go ahead
and remove those now. While were here were also going to remove the control board its
attached cable so i will go ahead and take care of that. With this tiny little board
removed i can begin working on the motherboard assembly, and it is held in place by eight
phillips screws around the perimeter so I’m just going to take those out. With those screws out i can remove the control
board bracket, and the hard drive cover on the other side. I’ll use my spudger for that.
With those two pieces out, we can remove the mother board assembly from the rear case.
It is kinda heavy, and a little awkward so be careful. Were still trying to get to the
mother board. Which is between the upper and lower motherboard covers to do that, were
going to take of this rear panel and the ac inland. So after this is removed, the next
step is to take out the memory card reader and the power supply. Now that we have got
the power supply and the memory card ready out, the next step is to remove the heat sink
and the giant fan. To do that we have to remove these two brackets with our phillips screwdriver. With the brackets removed, we should be able
to lift the motherboard right off the fan, but if it sticks a little, its alright because
there is a lot of thermal paste holding the two together. So if you just pry it gently,
you should be able to lift it off. You want to be careful to not bend that copper tubbing
that is on the fan because it is kinda fragile. The next thing we are going to do is remove
the PRAM battery and the hard drive and then were almost at the motherboard. With those
screws removed, we can finally get to the motherboard, and the first thing were going
to do is do some cleaning. We need to take off all that old thermal paste and the old
thermal pads. Once you have that as clean as you think you can get it, We are going
to start the process of re-flowing the solder. So you are going to need your heat gun, your
going to set it on low, and your going to slowly heat heat the entire board, and that
is going to prevent localized thermal expansion. Your going to do this until the board is warm
but not really hot. Okay now that the board is nice and warm,
you are going to want to rest it on a support that is level, and that can withstand a pretty
good amount of heat, I’m just going to use this old iPhone box. It is important that
the whole thing stays level, because as your re-flowing the solder, it actually liquifies
and you don’t want it tilted around because that can permanently damage your board. Next thing were going to do is focus the heat
from the heat gun on the four sections that are indicated in the guide.
And your going to do this kind of in a circular motion, for like twenty- five or thirty seconds
on each part. Once you start this process it is really important that you don’t bump
or touch the board because again it can permanently damage it and you don’t want to go through
all this work for nothing. Once that is done, you are going to let the board sit until it
is completely cool. Once it is cool your going to re-apply new thermal paste and new thermal
pads. If you have never applied thermal paste before there is a great thermal paste application
guide on our site. With the last of the thermal pads in place,
your done. I know it was a lot of steps, but if it means resurrecting your dead playstation,
i think it is totally worth it. You can find all the parts and tools for this and many
other repairs at ifixit.com, and if you run into any problems during your repair, there
are solutions in the playstation 3 repair guide on our site. If your watching this on
youtube, don’t forget to subscribe to our channel and of course you can follow us on
twitter at twitter.com/ifixit. Thanks for watching and happy repairing.