How Long Does It Take To Restore Neglected Paint? – Chemical Guys

– What’s up guys, welcome to part two of our detailing mini-series
on this Mercedes Benz. Now the other day you
saw that we went through the entire wash process
starting with the wheels, and we also timed it to show you guys exactly how long it should take to detail a modern mid-size vehicle. Now, every vehicle is different, which means that it could take longer, it could be shorter depending
on the size of the vehicle, and also the level of dirt
that you’re workin’ with. A car that has a lot of filth on there, a lot of stains, you have
to be very careful with it, so that can take you much longer. Also, if you’re working
on a truck or a large van that’s gonna take you longer, than say, a four door sedan would. But now we’re moving on to the second part of our mini-series where we’re going to be
showing you how to clay it and polish it to revive this red finish. And as you can see the
paint has a lot of scratches and swirls and all kinds of staining because the owner doesn’t
necessarily take care of it. So, we’re gonna remove all that by using our TORQ 15DA
with an orange pad and V32, which is going to gently knock down a layer of clear coat
to refine the finish, and to refine it even further we’re gonna use a white pad with our V36 to give it that really
deep lustrous shine. So to get started up, already
taped up half the hood here, or close enough to half, close enough for junior college at least. And now we’re gonna use a clay bar to remove the impurities
that are in the paint which give it that rough feel and also kind of a rough look. And then that’s going to prep
it for our polishing step. But to begin let’s grab
our medium clay bar and then go to town on this hood. So I’ve already kneaded up a
small piece of the clay bar into a very thin patty. This covers about three fingers. And then to start I have my clay luber which I’m gonna spray on my hand as well as the clay bar. And then onto the surface. And you wanna make sure that
it’s thoroughly lubricated so that it’s not grabbing
or dragging on the surface. Because that can create marring it can damage the paint very easily. But as long as it’s gliding, it means it’s going to be
thoroughly cleansing the paint without adding new perfections. That’s okay to be generous
with the clay luber because as I mentioned you
don’t wanna harm the paint. But as I’m working, it’s
gonna start off kinda rough, or it’s gonna drag a little bit. But as you pull the junk that’s in the pores of the paint out it’ll get smooth, or it’ll
at least sound smoother, and then the clay bar will
just glide across the surface. You can also use a clay
block or a clay mitt. Or even a clay disc if you have one, but I prefer the clay bar because this conforms to any shape and it also gets into very tight areas. This way you’re thoroughly
cleansing the paint. This way you get the best
results as you’re polishing and also the best end result. Now you can see all the
junk that’s in the clay bar, this is pulling it out of
the pores of the paint. All you have to do is simply roll it over and knead it to a new side. This way you’re not grinding
it back into the finish. But you wanna be very
careful you don’t drop this because I’ve said it before, and I will say it again, this is just like a piece of gum, if you drop it you’re gonna
have to throw it away. Which is why I only use
a small piece at a time because if you should drop it, you’re not throwing the
entire clay bar away, you’re just throwing a very small piece. So now the paint feels very smooth. The clay bar glides
gently across the surface, and now we’re just gonna take
a clean micro fiber towel and wipe off the access. But just a couple things I wanna mention before we move on at that. There’s a lot of
misconceptions about clay bar. Where a lot of people
think that these actually remove scratch and swirls, when in reality all it does is pull the impurities out
of the pores of the paint. The old clay bars used to
have a mild abrasive in there that kinda helped to remove
some of the impurities, but really all it did
was add more scratches. And also, people wanna know
if you can use soapy water, or just water by itself to
actually lubricate the clay bar, when in reality the clay luber itself has the right kind of
chemicals to help it glide safely across the surface but also it’s adding
nutrients to the clay bar so it lasts as long as it can. You know, most soaps can degrade
the actual finish of this, so these will start peeling or tearing apart as you’re working which kinda kills ’em. So, using a proper clay
lubricant is the best way to go. And this way you can get the best results and also you’re not going
through tons of product. Now I’ll just grab a clean green work horse microfiber towel. You don’t need to wash the surface again, especially if you’re gonna be polishing. Just simply wipe away the spent product and any of the remaining dirt. The clay bar… The clay luber actually helps to kinda cleanse away most of the dirt. This way you don’t have to
kinda wash it over again. And now it’s simply remove the
grime that was in the pores. Like I mentioned, this is
prepping it for polishing, or if you use a light enough clay bar and you polish your car, or basically maintain your vehicle this is what you need to do
before you put on new waxes. This way again it’s gonna bond
directly to the bare paint. It’s not gonna be
locking any of the filth. And it’s gonna help it
last as long as it can. So now we’ll grab our TORQ 15DA, we’ll attach the orange hex-logic pad, give it a little bit of the V32, and then we’ll get right
onto the polishing steps. So as I mentioned this is our TORQ 15DA, which is the newest installment to the TORQ brand, and obviously the reason
why it’s called a 15 is because it has a 15 millimeter throw. What makes this machine so great is it has a more powerful motor so it’s not gonna bog down in the curves or the contours of the vehicle. This way you’re getting consistent results on the entire surface
that you’re working on. Now I’m just attaching a
five inch hex-logic pad, which I believe is the perfect combination of cutting power as well as
covering enough surface area. And now just using some V32,
simply shake the bottle. We’re gonna apply five dime
sized drops to our pad. Which is about the size of one hex. Then I’m also going to spray
with some pad conditioner which helps to moisten the pad, which helps it last as long as possible. But this is also giving
it the proper work time so that the chemical can
thoroughly do it’s job. Somebody wants to ask me
why I repeat myself a lot, that’s because one, I always
hope there’s new viewers that are learning how to polish, or whatever steps that we’re
working on for that day. So, I repeat myself to one, practice makes perfect and also for anybody that’s new, this is just the proper way to do it. Now workin’ with a dual action you wanna make sure that you
put the machine on the surface and then you turn it on. This way you’re not flinging compound or polish all over the place. And then also on the lowest speed setting that’s where we’re going to
give this even coat of polish. And then on our highest speed setting, that’s where we’re gonna
do our actual cutting. Now you wanna make sure that the machine is completely flat. This way it’s going to do
an even consistent result. And you wanna make sure that you’re giving some very
light amount of pressure just basically the weight of your hand is all you really need. And you do wanna keep
it from tipping too much from one side to the other. This is easy to do on
hoods and flat panels, but when you’re working on a door or something vertical, typically you’ll turn
your head and then it’ll dive or it’ll dip where
it’ll stall the pad. And then you’re not actually cutting, you’re not polishing, you’re just basically massaging the paint. You’re not really doing anything. So we’re gonna spread it out and then on our highest speed setting we’ll actually do our paint correction. And then I’ll show you
guys a before and after. So I just completed the step using V32 with an orange hex-logic pad and now we need to refine the finish using a white hex-logic pad and V36. Now in some cases with cars
that have very hard paint, such as most European cars, you can actually finish with a V32 if you know what you’re doing. But we wanna refine it even further to get some of those light
scratch and swirls out, and of the little marring
effects that was left behind. That’s why we’re using the V36. So if we shake up the bottle, and we’re gonna apply the
same amount to the pad. And repeat the same
process of spreading it out and then using the highest speed to actually remove the scratch and swirls. As you guys can see, it’s
a huge transformation from the scratch and swirled side to the now freshly polished side. Now typically after you polish you wanna put some kinda
protective coating on there, whether it’s ceramic or carbon. Or you can skip that and go
to an optional step of glaze, which masks any minor
swirls and scratches. You wanna lock all that shine
in there using a sealant and or a wax to help
really bring out the shine, but more importantly it’s
gonna protect the finish, because if you didn’t know white absorbs UV rays in a very poor way. So, over time it’s
gonna start to turn pink or it’ll oxidize and then it’s
just eventually gonna fail. But by putting on a sealant
or protective coating is going to help prolong
the life of your paint. So now I’m gonna take the tape off to show you guys a before and after, and already I can see there’s just this beautiful hands down transformation. But now the headlight looks kinda junky, so we’re gonna set up our TORQ 15 with a green hex-logic pad and then using some headlight restorer we’ll bring that headlight back to life just so overall the car looks better. And also that’s gonna
give it some more clarity which is also going to
be safer, obviously. So let’s take that tape off. Now as you can see it’s very
dull matte sheen on this side, and just a pretty pure
glossy side on that end. Obviously it’s not gonna
be 100% paint correction because the car was
scratched pretty heavily and most of those are pretty deep. Some of it’s even actually
underneath the paint, so I wonder if it has been
repainted in it’s life, but overall this is a
lot better than it was. You can let go now. And eventually, this car can probably
use a heavier compound maybe even some wet sanding. But overall, I think it looks fantastic. So, like I said, we’re gonna
take the tape off here, then we need to mask around the area, so that we’re not re-polishing any steps. And then we’re gonna get this
headlight lookin’ it’s best. So now we’re moving
onto the headlight step, just like I mentioned, using a one step headlight restorer. Basically this is a polish
that’s designed specifically for your optical plastics, to remove any kind of
faded UV protectants, and also the dead plastic. Now again I’m going to be
showing you how to use it with our TORQ 15DA because a lot of people
can either do this by hand or with a rotary. But if you have a 15 DA
you might as well use it. So basically all you’re gonna do is same thing with any kind of polishes, you wanna shake it up. And then apply it to the pad. You’re gonna let the
machine do all of the work. And since we’re workin’
on a very small area, we’re only gonna be
using about three dots. But we’ll still use some headlight… About three dots but we’re still gonna
use some pad conditioner. To again help moisten the pad. So this reduces any kind of friction that would normally kill a pad and it’s also giving the proper
work time for your polish. We’re gonna blotch it out. Luckily, we’re workin’ on a headlight that doesn’t have a whole
lot of oxidation on it. And it also doesn’t have the alignment nub so we don’t have to fight around that. And they’re fairly large, so the five inch pad’s going to be okay. Now, we’ll do the same thing, we’re gonna spread it out, and then on the highest speed we’re just gonna work it in till basically it’s gone
translucent or clear. And then we’ll wipe it
off and check our work. You can see that the TORQ
15 with headlight restorer did an amazing job of
restoring perfect clarity to these headlights. This is a lot more cost efficient than replacing these headlights because it is a Mercedes and everything’s just gonna be expensive. So, headlight restorer essentially
removes the dead plastic and the oxidized layer that was on top to give you perfect clarity again. Once you remove that you wanna put some kind of
protective coating back on it. Which is why we’re gonna put jet seal on the headlights as well
as the rest of the vehicle after we’re done polishing it. So I need to jump on that and in the meantime you guys can head over to
our website, check out these products for yourself. If you like this video or this car be sure to give it a thumbs up, and as always we’ll see guys next time, right here in the detail garage.