Engine Porting Kit & How To DIY from Eastwood


Today we’re gonna talk about something that may be
magic to some others might just be the normal course of building a motor but it’s porting a cylinder head you’ve already upgraded exhaust carburetor maybe even a cam now what you want to do is get the most efficiency you can out of better flowing heads this is a traditional small block chevy, this has happened to
be an aluminum one and your exhaust ports here in your intake are
pretty much just sand cast as is what we want to show you it’s how you can port these heads and polish them and what we have here is a
cut away of the same cast-iron small block chevy and what we’re going to do here is to eliminate the
flash that’s on here in the rough cast and smooth the airflow what this will do is
increase the offender will also get here a little bit more linear path coming down in there Alright, what you have in front of you here is the Eastwood cylinder head porting kit comes with uh… an assortment of eighty
grit abrasive rolls you have your ah… straight role here which gets you into the floor in the
ceiling and the sides of the port a lot easier and then you have your
taper this will get you into some of the tighter areas
in the radius also what we include are two four-inch mandels and to six-inch mandels Alright, what what to do is take the uh… take the mystery out of porting It’s really not that difficult and its benefits are far rewarding and
measurable even a uh… very simple porting job can give you anywhere from
two to eleven c f_m_ increase first thing you want to do start with this is a big block chevy
that we have here this is the intake side take your intake gasket simply use a couple bolts here too just temporarily hold it in place and what we’re going to do is scribe the gasket area itself around each point just take a carbide scribe so what we have one here we have a scribe line of areas of the metal
we want to remove and one thing that you want to do when you’re porting is
remembered don’t move too much metal what you want to do is simply smooth the casting area itself bring the metal the opening out here to
your gaskets and then stay about a half inch back from the valve seat what we’re going to do is start off with what’s
included in the kit is the six-inch role here so we can do to speed stuff especially if you are doing cast iron heads
is we have carbide birch you can purchase
carbide bars in a 3 inch length and a 6 inch length What these will do is just speed up the production time. simply start working around the port itself you don’t wanna focus
just in one area there ’cause what your going to start doing is really miss shaping the port itself so continue around continue to go deeper deeper inside of the
port now again you can’t do a lot of damage if all you are
doing is smoothing the metal and not tried to reshape and remove a lot but where you do want to watch I’ll simply flip this pig over the valve seats themselves you want to stay back a half inch what a lot of guys will do is get into the
uh… full area here and start blending which is fine you can do that one thing they have to remembers any minute material you’re removing here
is actually lowering the compression ratio so i’d like to do is just get a feel see
if there’s any heavy casting flash if you do find area simply blend him out but most importantly
when you’re on the side this area right around here around the
combustion chamber this tends to be very shot from the machining
operation on the heads here so you want to do with the used roll is just gently break that edge just take one pass around there what
it’ll do is eliminate any of those sharp corners which actually add to preignition they’ll turn into literally glow plugs with heat there Aright, we’re going to start supporting operation now
we’re going to start in the combustion chamber area like we said earlier you want to stay away from
valve seat area here What you do want to notice is it is a sharp bridge about a half-inch maybe five eighths up below the valve seat itself and this just by nature of the casting leaves a step or a sharp edge
what we’re going to do is go in there with our role and start blending and smoothing that out again you don’t have to
remove a lot of metal what you want to do here is just break any of those
edges you want to have nice laminer air flow through here so what we’re doing is just gently start with the uh… carbide bur again this is an accessory that
you can buy through Eastwood and all it does is speed up the process and then uh… you’ll see a switch back
to to between the tapered and the regular straight roles through the operation stop, check your work frequently again you’re looking for continuous blending not so much just heavy metal removal what we’re doing here is just going in
with the six-inch mandel on here and tapered roll going to the bottom or what was called the floor also the sides and then the roof uh… we’re doing is going in there now smooth everything out removing any of
the uh… work we created with the bar and the casting flash what i like to do is continue to go around as much as you can in a circular pattern circular and spiral in
there what it does is keep you from grinding into one area misshaping but also haim and whether it’s factual or not it just tends to especially on the intake here give you their belief as years coming in
is given a swirling effect so you know some change in the roles
pretty frequently there’s still about half left in these Since I only have to take about about fifty steps to walk
in the warehouse those guys that they’re great they’ll
distract management and I can get these things free all day long you know the main thing i’d like to do
is like we did a gasket matching on here get that open up to your gasket
make sure you get the right gasket around there in proportion to uh… whether you’re putting on headers or the original
cast iron manifolds Alright, now that you got these things ported and uh… cleaned up what you want to do is actually lap your valves and what this does is this seats the valve based tube to the valve seat itself there’s lapping compound which you can see i have on my finger and about itself plug your valve in and the nice thing to do is just take a sharpie at
this point and uh… you can mark the valve itself
to the cylinder this is the valve lapping tool this is
what you guys are probably familiar with uh… these are a dime a dozen at
uh… auto parts stores of it but it’s used to suction cup on the valve and then you continually do this and what you’re doing the lapping
compound its self is is an abrasive and what it’s doing is it’s
removing a minute amount of metal But, this is tedious and you got sixteen of these things to
do so another trick on the valve stem side itself you take a small cordless drill carefully chuck it onto the valve stem attache from the inside and what you want to do is rotate at very very slow speed slowly very slowly lift up a little and bring it down this is itself a
little bring it down very slowly, you don’t have to do that for a very long period of time at all and also another note is with oil on the valve stem itself so that you aren’t wearing your guide remove the valve wipe off your lapping
compound and if you have a good valve to valve seal what you’ll see is a band right around
the middle of the valve face area itself Alright, now that you did all those valves now the thing to do since you got the
heads off Go ahead, you made them flow nice you might as well make ’em look nice this is our new high temp ceramic engine paint we sell this in quarts it’s set up right out of the can it can be sprayed through a spray gun or it brushes very nice also This is very nice also it’s a one-inch foam brush it wouldn’t take very long to cover here and paint the entire head very easily